After spending three nights in Kuala Lumpur, a small flight delay and a fair amount of turbulance, I finally arrived at the international airport of Makassar. I receive a warm and friendly welcome from immigration. The price for a visa on arrival is 30 euro or 500k rupiah. I show the lady my credit card. “You don’t have cash miss?” Oh, DUCK! I had read this somewhere but forgot about it because well: where can’t you pay with a credit card in 2025? At immigration in Indonesia apparently. That is just great! The woman behind the counter is very helpfull and makes a call. A few minutes later she shows me the way to the arrival hall where I can withdraw some money. Small detail: I have to leave my luggage and passport behind. In addition I have to pass not one, not two, but three checkpoints. No biggy right?! Seven year ago I was “the millionaire with a boy’s name”, this time I am “miss atm”. After the walk of shame I am able to pay my visa with cash and I can finally enter Indonesia.
Selamat datang di Sulawesi
Sulawesi (or Celebes) is about four times the amount of the Netherlands and tourisme is much less developed than Bali or Java for example. However, the island boasts of culture, pristine white beaches and tropical rainforests. I wanted to visit a mosque, float on Paisupok lake and those adorable tarsiers in real life. Yet, a trip to Indonesia is most remarkable because of the local people.
The next day I decide to have breakfast somewhere first. Like other major cities in Indonesia, Makassar has a lot of cute coffee shops. However, kopi dingin is the way to go over here. I am more of a cappuccino panas kinda girl and I don’t really prefer a hearty meal early in the morning. Unfortunately the coffee is too weak and the french toast aren’t very tasty either. Yu want my advise? Just order a nasi goreng and go for a sweet coffee (or tea) with ice. They just know that best. Before I head out I order a GoJek to withdraw some more money. Cash seems to be king in Sulawesi. I politely ask my GoJek driver to wait for me and also take me back. He kinldy agrees to do so. Regrettably, the universe doesn’t want to cooperate this morning. The BRI bank won’t accept my Dutch debit card. The boy in green, as the guys from GoJek are often called, takes me to another atm. This one doens’t work either. I want to give up, but my driver insists I ask the security guy, who directs us to another bank a kilometer away. At BCA we have better luck. Back at the hotel I only get charged for the one-way trip. That is 70 cents, can you believe it? This guy drove me to an atm, took me to two others AND drove me back, without asking anything in return. Of course, there are exceptions but honest does seem to be the rule here. I did gave him double the amount because I thought that was fair. Oh, how wonderful it is to be back in Indonesia!
Makassar and surroundings
Around 9 am I hit the road to Rammang Rammang with Dodo. I’d met him a few days before via WhatsApp. In Sulawesi it is very common to arrange things through WhatsApp. Dodo is a very reliable guide who can also help you with transportation to your next destination. It is possible to travel by public transport but that takes up a lot of time and time is precious. Dodo speaks as much Dutch as I speak Bahasa which was a nice add to the English we spoke. Dodo knows a lot about the area but also tells me a bit about himself. We talk about Islam and about our daily lifes. I really enjoyed it. Rammang Rammang is a nature reserve just an hour’s drive away from Makassar. You will find rice fields, mangroves and gigantic limestone cliffs here. It really give you that authentic image of Indonesia. I also take a walk through the ‘stone jungle’ with the owner of Stone Garden and risk my life by taking a manmade lader into a dark cave. Why on earth do I do these kind of things? Luckily, I survived another day.
I also wanted to visit Malino, a small village in the mountains. After some Googling, I ended up at Rotterdam Rental Car. That sounds familiar. I texted with Komar and an hour later it was settled. The next day a yound and enthusiastic guy picked me up at 7 in the morning. Malino is a bit of a drive but Komar likes a chat as much as I do so the time flies. Before I know it, we stop at the first waterfall. Ketemu Jodoh means something like ‘meeting your soulmate’. Locals believe that if you go into the water as a single person, you’ll soon get married. So I didn’t swim there because could you imagine? Instead, I handed Komar my camera to take my picture. I then learned he likes photography. What a bonus! Just a few minutes away you will find Air Terjun Takapala. This secons waterfall is even more impressive. Both waterfalls are easy to reach and you can swim at either one of them. I found it a bit to cold for that. Malino is located 1500 meters above sea level. This offers beautiful views but unfortunately the clouds also linger. I didn’t see much of the tea plantations for that matter. We did stop at the local market to buy some tropical fruits before the drive back to Makassar. It was a lovely day!
On the third day I explored Makassar city on my own pase. I always enjoy that the most. I let a GoJek drop me off at Tanamerra Coffee for breakfast. Here they do serve a nice cup of hot coffee and a smoothie bowl with granola. Lovely! Afterwards I make my way to Masjid 99 Kubah, party strolling along side the road. This unique mosque was only built in 2017 and has 99 domes representing the 99 names of Allah. Like: the Merciful, the All-seeing, the Forgiving, etc. You won’t find any statues or any images in a mosque, as you are only allowed to worship God. However, you will find colour in a lot of mosques in Indonesia. Non-Muslims are very welcome if dressed modestly off course. Women are also asked to cover their hair. Headscarves aren’t provided everywhere so make sure you carry your own. In world’s largest Muslim country I consider a visit to a mosque a must-do but it is also a very interesting and a serene thing to do. I don’t know, you just have to experience it for yourself.
After a peaceful but sweaty morning, I order a GoJek to Fort Rotterdam. This 17th-century fort is named after teh birthplace of a Dutch East India Company admiral. If you are from Rotterdam yourself you can’t really skip this on your citytrip to Makassar. I am one of the few Western tourist but it is still quite busy as there is a school trip going on. Before I even entered the gate I was spotted by a group of school girls. You might as well get used to it because in Indonesia, you are the center of attention. At least once a day someone wants to take a picture with you. Off course I said “yes”. Before I knew it a dozen teenagers appear to take a selfie. After a photo session and some looking around I wandered through the streets of Makassar. Along the way I stopped at a warung for some coto (no not soto). You should try it too. Finally, I enjoyed a walk along Losari boulevard during sunset. It can feel a bit overwhelming with all the street vendors here but a kind “tidak, terima kasih” will do the trick. Choose one of the many food stall and treat yourself to a delicious meal. If you still have some energy left: karaoke bars are very popular amoung locals.
Banggai Islands
Once you are traveling around Sulawesi you can also visit one of the small islands along the coast. Most tourist choose Togean Islands or Pulau Bunaken, as the diving there is supposedly excellent. I’m going for the up-and-coming Banggai Islands. To do so, I travel to Luwuk first, a city in Central Sulawesi. English isn’t spoken everywhere on Sulawesi but it is even less common on Banggai. Therefore, I thought it would be easier to book a private tour. It is definitely more easy but for Indonesian standards I also found it quite expensive. Although I am traveling alone and can’t split the cost. In retrospect, I could have also arranged the trip myself and would have probably spend less money. Nevertheless, I had no fuzz! I had a great time and didn’t have to think about a thing. That is what a holiday should be. So if you don’t want no fuzz either, just know you have to book your tour via WhatsApp and transfer 50% upfront – yes, we are talking about a few hundred bucks. You might find that a bit dubious but what is the worst that could happen? Secretly I was a bit nervous too but when I arrived in Luwuk was kindly greeted by Acho. The tour starts with a delicious lunch at Luwuk’s boulevard. Here you will find numerous of warungs serving tastefull dishes. Food is one of the highlights of the next five days. After lunch we visit Piala Waterfall. It is a sunday so the waterfall is packed with locals. While that is a pity for taking photos, it does add more to the experience. After about an hour of people-watching, it is time to take the ferry to Banggai. The journey takes about three hours. The other passengers are mainly locals who live or work on the island. Thanks to my English-speaking tour guide I’m able to have a nice chat with a few of them. I consider this as a bonus. When we arrive on Banggai it is already dark so after dinner I was dropped of at my hotel. The room is so new that the paint is still wet. But, most importantly: it has a flushing toilet! That’s not always the case. When the karaoke party finished I also call it a night.
It’s an early morning as the first prayer is called at 4.30am. Luckily, I fall back asleep afterwards but by 7am I’m ready to have breakfast. This is my morning routine for the next couple of days by the way. Today we’re going to a private beach and visit famous Oyama Beach. In the afternoon we stop at a Baju Village. This is a fisherman’s village built entirely on water. Beacaude of their excellent diving and fishing skills, these people are also called ‘sea gypsies’. When arriving by boat a group of kids will greet you with great curiosity. When traveling I also bring a pack of stroopwafels with me to ‘trade’. They came in handy today. The next day we drove to Paisupok and Paisubatango Lake. This is why I wanted to visit Banggai, guys! And you’ll probably want to visit now too. Unfortunately, the weather Gods are not on my side. It is pouring all day! Although life is more beautiful when the sun is out, it remains a truly stunning place. I paddled for about an hour on crystal clear water and spend the rest of the day sheltering in a wooden hut. It is sunny on our last morning on Banggai. Before taking the ferry back to Luwuk, we spend a little time relaxing on Pantai Pompon. In Luwuk, another lovely dinner awaits me. The Indonesian food is truly one of my favourites.
On day five of my five-day-tour we’re doing an early morning hike to Air Terjun Kamumu. This waterfall is a bit more difficult to reach but we do have it all to ourselfs. That is very enjoyable. The tour is suppose to end here but since I’m staying in Luwuk for another night, by can stop for lunch at the local market. The rest of the day I am laying by the pool doing nothing. I’m slowly relizing how amazing the past few days have been. Thanks to social media – yes, I am guilty too – Banggai is increasing in popularity. This is a good thing for the economy off course. Let’s just hope this islands doesn’t lose its charm.
Manado & Tangkoko
From Luwuk I fly to Manado with a stopover in Makassar. In North Sulawesi the majority of people are Christain and some have slighly different customs than you’re might be used to. For example, people here do eat babi but also other wild animals. I decide to explore the surroundings on a day trip with driver Roy. We first stop at the extreme market in Tomohon. For a minute, it feels like I’m in China and the coronavirus never existed. Besides fruits, vegetables and fish, you can also buy rats, bats, snakes and dogs here. Yes, dogs. Maybe this isn’t any different from chickens or cows but I wouldn’t be so keen on ordering a satay anjing myself. After some ‘window shopping’ we drive on to Bukit Kasih aka Love Hill. At the top of the mountain you will find several prayar building for the various religions in Indonesia. It’s basicly a monument where these faiths are united. Generally speaking the people of Indonesia live together in harmony. Furthermore, two giant faces protrude from the rocks of the mountain, representing two heroes from the past. At the same time Bukit Kasih is located on top of a hot spring, which makes it a bizarre place. Few tourist come here anyway but after COVID it became even more deserted. We are the only two visiters when we arrive, making it even more surreal. I follow Roy as he climbs up a staircase hidden in the pristine nature. I can still hear myself think: “following a complete stranger into the jungle is only a ‘good’ idea while traveling.” After a short but steep climb, we arrive abandoned prayer buildings. Probably no one has prayed here for ages. We rest under a tree and enjoy the view and breeze. When we finally get back at the parking area, a school bus arrived. I hear “bule, bule” for a distance. “Miss, miss”, “hello”, “your name is?”, “where you from?”, “where you go?” and then usually a picture is taken. I’ve gotten used to it by now. On our way back to Manado, we grab some satay babi and venture the rather narrow and steep hike to Air Terjun Kali. North Sulawesi is also bagus!
I’m spending my last two nights on the edge of Tangkoko National Park. Before I order a Grab – the Asian version of Uber – to the northern jungle, I’m starting off slow. I take the Soekarno Bridge for a morning walk, which reminds me a bit of home. I also treat myself to a well-deserved massage. This only cost me 9 euro. Did you know I have to pay 5,5 times as much in the Netherlands. That’s crazy! I arrive at my final destionation feeling completely zen. I am actually a bit bummed that I am leaving Indonesian. But, the sun is out so I stop wining and head to Pantai Batu Putih. Why this beach is called ‘putih’ is a mystery to me. The sand is pitch-black and incredibly hot! I drop my stuff in the shade and do absolutely nothing for the rest of the day. I love it! The next morning my alarm goes off at 5 a.m. Together with a couple Italians and our ranger I make my way into the jungle. It is raining but we think It will pass over soon. We see a cuscus, a group of black macaques and a big fat snake. Great fun – if it wasn’t still raining. We are soaking wet! My camera and I have been fed up for a while now and the Italians have had enough too. For lunch we went back to our homestay, where we have the change to dry off and take a nap. At 3 p.m. it finally stops raining. I decide to go on a second jungle trek. We see another group of black macaques. This time I find it much more enjoyable to observe them. My camera works much better too. What a strock of luck because not much later we see the tarsiers. They are so cute and tiny! And although they sleep during the day, they are very fast. I follow my ranger further into the jungle. Suddenly, I hear something that sounds like barking dogs. I wonder what dogs are doing in the jungle. My ranger picks up his pace and I adjust my speed to keep up with him. After a few meters he stops abruptly and we stare at the sky. “What on eart am I looking at?” Again I hear barking but closer this time. And then, out of nowhere, a deep sound of flapping wings. Two hornbills fly high above us. Wow, how cool is that?! I didn’t know birds could be so awsome. My ranger breaks into a sprint. “Hati, hati”, he calls. “Pelan, pelan, my friend”, I reply. He is clearly more excited than I am but I’m so grateful. Horn and Billy are the end of yet another beautiful journey. Selamat jalan Indonesia!
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